Kate Winslet in Helmut Lang current collection, and a Helmut Lang catwalk from Spring 1993
Marvellous news: this New York Fashion Week sees the first Helmut Lang catwalk show since 2006 taking place, a brilliant indication of the label’s current success under the ownership of ‘Theory’ and design direction of Michael and Nicole Colovos.
Helmut Lang was, of course, one of the biggest design houses of the late 80’s and 90’s, famed for its minimal cuts and super luxe fabrics, and with Lang (the man)’s ‘séances de travail’ (translated as ‘working sessions’, which is what he called his catwalk shows) forming the backbone of the brand’s success. However, after being bought by the Prada group in two separate transactions in 1999 and 2004, and the departure of Lang himself, the company made a loss for six years and was subsequently sold to Link Theory Holdings in 2006.
‘Theory’, to you and me, installed Michael and Nicole Colovos - founders of denim brand ‘Habitual’ - as head designers, which turned out to be a genius move and has signaled the reinvigoration of the label which is once again famed for its minimal cuts and luxe fabrics. Yay! The upcoming catwalk show, on September 10th, will also be screened online on the label’s new site, in another move which mirrors Helmut Lang (the man)’s use of t’interweb waaaay back in 1998.
And THAT, my dears, is what you call coming full circle.
- Alex Butt