In our latest crop of resort reports, (we don’t want to blow our stack to early by using the phrase ‘the last resort’ yet) we are excited about Celine, Mulberry and Emmanuel Ungaro. So far in the many collections we’ve viewed this (mid) season, we’ve seen a lot of relaxed tailoring, more than a few flashes of neon, with Barbie pink coming across in a huge number of people’s work (Michael Kors, McQ, Richard Nicoll and even Missoni) and a surf-influence including Hawaiian-inspired prints at Stella McCartney and Givenchy. All in all, lots of interpretations of summery fun times.
Over at Celine, though, surely Phoebe Philo, the queen of poised minimalism will not be tempted by floral prints and fuchsia splashes? Well, it looks like she has been just that. (!) Amongst the rectangular silhouettes of her masculine suit trousers, perfectly pressed blouses and sheer tops and part textile-part leather combos that instantly betray their designer, we found that not one but two floral trouser suits had sneaked in – although, the clean lines and edge of black make it hard to describe as ‘girly’ in any way. And Barbie pink? Surely not! Well, yep we saw one full look and one pair of eye-popping trousers in this least expected hue.
Meanwhile over at Mulberry, it looked like designer Emma Hill might have been on some kind of road trip, such a strong whiff of laid-back Americana was given off by the looks. From stonewashed denim to worn-looking tan leather to faded curtain-fabric florals – it was all ‘70’s LA. Styled exquisitely with kitten heels and scrunched down ankle socks; in guess which colour? Hot pink! This coherent, commercial collection was more than a backdrop to the (delicious) bags, and looks set to sell and sell and sell.
Aaaaand, over at Emmanuel Ungaro, Giles Deacon has rustled up a mini-skirted safari suit, a jaw-droppingly swish full length silk gown . . . and what else? Oh no, we’ve forgotten. Oh, yes, that’s right a neon pink tennis skirt with pink top and neon/neoprene holdall to keep her Robinson’s Fruit and Barley in. GENIUS.
- Naomi Attwood