Stella McCartney has developed the habit of holding her resort collection presentations in various glamorous New York gardens. This summer was no exception, in the locale of the Gardens of St. Luke’s in the West Village, one salubrious enough even to draw in the likes of Naomi Watts, Estelle and even Bono (!) to grace it with their celebrity presence.
Models continued the theme of outdoor activities as they used hula-hoops and bubble blow as props to accentuate the fun collection. As for the clothes, we saw a preponderance of Stella’s signature sharp-edged blazers and tailored trousers – in black hounds tooth as well as summery bright colours – sand, acid lemon and royal blue. Prints took on a light-hearted feel with Hawaiian prints and bold deckchair stripes in primary colours. Oh and McCartney also decorated clean white dresses with appliqued black ribbon bows, but managing to arrange the bows so neatly that the garments maintained their minimalist spirit. Such fun!
Over at Givenchy, the master of precision, Riccardo Tisci, had also been either watching surf films or holidaying in Tahita or Hawaii because he had saturated otherwise almost stiff looking, belted, structured dresses with tropical prints and topped the outfits off with some printed, military-style hats that Beyonce’s dancers would be proud to be seen in.
Elsewhere Tisci had digitally manipulated giant floral images to give a Georgia O’Keefe effect to his retro sweatshirts and tees. Beyond the the colour-saturated looks there were plenty of white and cream trouser suits and separates to entice in his clientele of international jet-setters.
Balenciaga can usually be counted on for the most forward looking of all the collections, sometimes raising concerns that Nicholas Ghesquiere might even be quite ahead of his time. For Resort 2012 he was quoted as saying he had turned to the Balenciaga archive for inspiration but to us it looked as dazzlingly futuristic as ever. This time femininely full skirts that came to just over the knee were added to the repertoire of loose silky shorts, masculine top halves and jackets. Colours tended to be muted with one bright accent. For example a sandy beige silk short suit with flashes of scarlet on the short vents and the top worn under the jacket or two outfits of beige or navy silk with neon pink and purple overlaid by black webbing to create a highlight. Neon brights also made us recall the surfer-influence at Stella and Givenchy . . . Cowabunga dude!