As we reported last week, more and more designers are including resort collections in their yearly schedule, not only because they help keep the all-important publicity machine rolling, but also because they bring in equally crucial sales as we become more and more used to the year-round pace of fast fashion.
This week has seen a slew of new resort collections hit the runways – including a first USA resort show for Acne and a debut for Alistair Carr, who showed his first collection for Pringle. So what did we see? Well, kids, it looks a little like this:
Alistair Carr showed his first collection for Pringle after moving from Balenciaga ready-to-wear, and the result? Inspired by Pringle’s heyday of the 50s and 60s, the collection fused classic twinsets with ‘pixel explosion’ prints, with Carr declaring that he hoped to ‘strike a balance between respecting and reinterpreting the Pringle of Scotland heritage’.
For their first resort show in NYC, Acne previewed a collection which softened their super-sharp offerings for A/W ’11, with creative director Jonny Johansson saying that ‘for our first time showing in NYC it’s about a young jeans girl who is colliding with romantic, historic fashion’ – resulting in a collection that fuses traditional couture fabrics like taffeta brocades and silks with Acne staples like cotton and denim.
Fresh from receiving his lifetime achievement award at Monday night’s CFDA’s, Marc Jacobs previewed Louis Vuitton’s resort 2012 collection in New York on Wednesday. Moving away from his fetishistic AW’11 collection, Jacobs showed a Parisian inspired collection of red white and blue mini dresses, with 60s style cycle helmets, bobs and bauble earrings, all shown on an impossibly green (though real) grass runway at NY’s The Four Seasons.
No such change of direction for Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein, who stuck steadfastly to a minimal, monochrome formula with classic Calvin Klein dresses in steel, white and black with skinny belts keeping draped dresses neat, and wide leg trousers giving the collection a laid back vibe.
For his own label, Marc went wallpaper print crazy, with giant repeated prints on washed out separates in shades of navy, bottle green and off-white, with oversized striped sweatshirts glammed up with laser cut metallics and giant crystals.
Nicoll followed his paired-back A’W collection with a resort collection that paired airy white georgette smocks and last season’s handkerchief hems with silver bustier ra-ra dresses and Barbara Cartland pink tunics under an invisible jersey suit, all of which made us more excited than ever about what he’ll offer for A’W ’12.
Holland, of course, has injected a blast of fun into the resort collection schedule (and, moreover, into our rainy Friday afternoon) with this ace video where Eliza Cummings models Holland’s Psychedelic stripes to Neneh Cherry’s Buffalo Stance. 90s-tastic, we think you’ll agree.
And still to come next week… Stella McCartney, Lanvin, Jonathan Saunders and lots more. Phew. Start saving now!
- Alex Butt