Nowadays designers are going in for resort and pre-fall collections in ever increasing numbers. These smaller, capsule collections that fall in between the main two fashion weeks in the four capitals are crucial money spinners for designers in a precarious business. It’s almost bizarre that the main collections sweep up 95% of the publicity, but it’s the pre-collections that bring in the big cash.
Why? Well, in the words of Tibi designer Amy Smilovic, the approach to creating a resort collection is based on buyers’ feedback and their preference for ‘buy now, wear now’ clothing. Therefore, the clothes, she said, are seasonless and can be worn year-round with the help of some layering. ‘Its all about clean, easy pieces in special cuts,’ said Smilovic. SIMPLES! We say; this Tibi resort collection is made up of flattering looking separates and a two tone jumpsuit in soft brights, that look tailored but not body hugging. Shades of Phoebe Philo for Celine, only more wearable for those of us who aren’t rake-thin enough to get away with the original!
Let’s have a look at the best of the rest . . .
Dior has produced the first collection created for the French mega-brand without the influence of former creative director John Galliano, or for that matter, any creative director. In a somewhat radical direction, the brand is going for bold graphic motifs and modern colours, without a hint of the forties-movie-star glamour the brand more often embodies.
For Gucci’s 90th anniversary year, creative director Frida Giannini may have sensed that all eyes would be on her collections and has pulled out a blinder. Not overtly ‘70’s, as the brands DNA dictates, but a mix of serious, rather than girly glamour and intensely luxurious fabrics. While the designer has said it references past glories of the brand, we think it is quite forward looking and – absolutely perfectly wearable as it is, with no imagination required. The slim, tapered black trews with gold encrusted vest and white blazer is the perfect party outfit – the one that will make all the girls in dresses look frilly and overdone.
Has Erdem Moralioglu forfeited his right to the label “young” designer? what with all the heads of state and government he keeps dressing we think he probably has, and we mean that in a complimentary way – like not old fashioned, but established in the fashion firmament. We love the way he is keeping his structured, floral print dresses interesting by adopting this ‘50’s silhouette of boxy jackets, fitted waists and Capri pants (one of his signatures already). Apparently his inspiration was ‘the late actress Romy Schneider and her appearances in Luchino Visconti’s films’ We LOVE.
Missoni have kept the brilliantly eye-drawing Care Bear/My Little Pony colour palette of their A/W collection – mauves, pinks, lemons and turquoises and produced floaty, dreamy summer outfits with extremely Hoxton looking turbans and headdresses for a paradisiacal resort; which after all, means holiday - collection.
Rachel Zoe has managed to go more Gucci than Gucci did with her lush jewel colours and very slim ‘70’s outline – very sophisticated we think.
Over at YSL, Stefano Pilati presented a large collection based on a couple of motifs – nautical with anchors and rope coils (even starfish!) galore, stripes, and poppy prints. He’s gone crazy for prints, in fact, where the label more typically covers interesting features like structured sleeves or billowing bottom halves in block colour and matt black. This only goes to prove that for resort, even the most earnest of fashion designers can give in to the urge to have a bit of fun!
- Naomi Attwood