LFW 'A/W '11 Menswear Round Up

24 February 2011

For the fifth season running, London Fashion Week has dedicated its final day to menswear, whilst the womens shows continue apace in Milano (more of that later). This season's A/W '11 menswear day was a packed and better attended day than ever - heck, Even Mossy made her only appearance this LFW at the James Small show, and Grazia Daily spotted an immaculately attired Hamish Bowles rushing in and out of J W Anderson and Topman Design. Fancy.

So - the clothes. Well, there was the usual mix of bonkers and wearable which Grazia Daily has helpfully distilled for you, enabling you to print this off an present it to the boyfriend later. So, exactly what did we learn about what said boyfriend is going to be sporting this winter, you ask? We learned this:

Topman Design

1. Knotted Cravats and Faux Fur Stoles Are the New Scarves

Topman Design debuted a louche, largely double-breasted collection of tweed suiting worn with knotted cravats and faux fur stoles. Meanwhile E. Tautz (the ready to wear arm of established Savile Row tailor, Norton & Sons, now under the style direction of Patrick Grant) also showcased heritage inspired tweed suiting in shades of maroon and mustardy gold. Decadent. 

Topman Design

2. The cropped trouser is here to stay.

Trousers that finish an inch or two above the ankle were seen not only on the catwalks at Topman Design and JW Anderson, but literally EVERYWHERE in the audience. In terms of men’s style, wearing trousers that finish here is a bit like a Masonic handshake. It slyly says 'I know what I'm doing and everybody who recognizes this also knows what they’re doing’ whilst being subtle enough for people who don’t know what they’re doing, not to notice it. If you see what we mean.

3. You and your man can matchy-matchy the Seventies trend

SO - we know the 70s are a big story for womenswear, and this season they've begun to encompass menswear as well. But before you begin to panic about the prospect of Dad-tight flares making an appearance, fret not. This is not a literal re-enactment of the decade that taste forgot, it's more subtle than that - forget the flares, or wide lapels or kipper ties, but think a hint of paisley (JW Anderson’s amazing quilted hoods, popping out from his sharply tailored jackets), faded fawns and hints of pastel colours (the pink and blue ruffle fronted skirts at Christopher Shannon, par example). Of course, being London Fashion Week, there were also some completely insane 70s themed options - like the printed satin loungewear at Cassette Playa (shown as part of a Ken doll inspired collection, accompanied by top-to-toe gold body paint) - but unless the boyfriend models his look on Hugh Hefner, it's probably best to stick to something like the longer line narrow shouldered jackets we saw at E.Tautz and Tim Soar. Capiche?

Katy Eary and Cassette Playa

4. The biker jacket is the new Barbour jacket

Alongside the more formal menswear, there was SOME respite for guys who don’t want to spend A/W in a double-breasted tweed jacket. And it came in the form of bikerwear. Katie Eary showed fluoro painted biker jackets and trousers in her Frankenstein’s Lab’ collection (all accessorized with rose gold neck screws and mouth pieces to give the effect of a Cheshire cat grin) and Cassette Playa showed an amazing copper metallic biker jacket which, though almost unwearable outside of the LFW tents, we completely loved.

5. Aaaand finally: Latex.

Maybe Grazia Daily is underestimating the sartorial bravery of the British male, but we will be VERY surprised if this catches on. After Marc Jacob’s touch of latex at his New York show this season, yesterday we saw pink and turquoise latex cardigans at J W Anderson, and neon coloured latex tops at Katie Eary. Really? It MIGHT be a bit too 'Gaga' for the pub.

- Alex Butt


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