19 January 2011

Pre-Fall Round Up: McQueen, Viktor & Rolf, Ungaro and YSL!

And now for our Pre-Fall round up part FOUR! The collections come out at their own pace, unlike the two main fashion weeks. Here we have assembled for your perusal the latest four designers to emerge with their Pre-Fall ideas - Alexander McQueen, Viktor & Rolf, Emmanuel Ungaro and Yves Saint Laurent.

Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall by designer Sarah Burton has taken shapes that are very signature McQueen – tailored and cut close to the waist, as well as taking inspiration from military uniforms – stiff navy, epaulettes and brass buttons and twisted their application. We like it!

Viktor Horsting and Ralf Snoeren have produced a monochrome collection with a toasty warm look to it with great big necklines a focal point. A funnel-necked coat, a frothy bib on a white shirt and a giant fuzzy collar all feature. Mannish suiting made these tomboys look very grown up indeed, while we spotted a second pair of tartan trousers to catch our eye from the pre-collections – the first having been by Celine. Two’s a coincidence but three will make it a trend!

Here we have a jolly sensible and, to our mind, very French collection by Giles Deacon at the House of Emmanuel Ungaro. Trouser suits with a kicky little flare, smart jackets and even a skirt suits He has used contrasting textures with a flash of orange to lift the pieces rather than all-over colour. It’s quite a jump from his eponymous collection, but you can see his very Giles-like flourishes here and there, like the pockets and the curved edges of the jackets.

The Yves Saint Laurent pre collection muse was a particularly strict and formal one. Apparently Stefano Pilati took inspiration from the founder’s Opium collection, and there was more than a hint of retro about it. Razor sharp jackets with characteristic slashed sleeves gave a stern 60’s feel, and one that was slightly more daring than many of the other collections, with plenty of ideas going on without feeling watered down.   


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