Congratulations are due for Olivier Theyskens! The Belgian designer has been promoted at Theory – to Artistic Director. Although originally taken on to design the collections, he’ll now take over responsibility for the entire Theory brand. And his first Theory collection will be unveiled for the Autumn/Winter 2011 season.

Until recently, Olivier was widely thought of is "the most talented designer not to be heading up a brand". His ethereal, feminine yet supercool designs at Nina Ricci stuck in fashion editors' minds after he left the brand, and his name has since been routinely mooted when speculation about takeovers/musical chairs within fashion come up. Even Daphne Guinness, who numbers Karl Lagerfeld and John Galliano among her chums mentioned him instantly as ‘a one to watch’ when Grazia Daily caught up with her at a recent party.

Theory itself is a very cool brand indeed. It started in 1997 with a claim to making the best fitting trousers around, and sure enough, sufficient customers agreed with this boast to have expanded the brand to whole ranges of menswear and womenswear and thorough America and into Asia. (Theory is stocked by boutiques over here but we don’t have stand alone stores). It sits between the High Street and designer and stocks a kind of daytime clothes with a sharp, fashion twist; classic, but not basic. It is expected that Theyskens will give Theory a fashion jolt while continuing to appeal to its existing customer.

Despite all the rumours of appointments to various European fashion houses, Theyskens has emphasised how at home he feels at the New York brand; ‘There are a lot of things that we can do,’ he said. ‘It’s very stimulating for me.’ He has also spoken of his strong relationship with Andrew Rosen, founder and co-chief executive officer, saying. ‘Everybody says there is such a good energy here and I agree’.

[wwd]

-Naomi Attwood