Rather than queuing for the menswear static presentations, Grazia Daily enjoys what will probably be the last day of sunshine this year to write our menswear report.
Esteemed couture house Hardy Amies set up a garden-based presentation in Simpsons on the Strand, and a very dignified affair it was too. Creative Director Oliver Benjamin explained that it references Amies’ love of relaxing in his garden in the Cotswolds. His freshly relaxed S/S ‘11 collection included a very fanciable ice blue linen suit with what amounts to Neapolitan construction, shoulders with no pads like a shirt, creating a modern and quite dramatic departure from what people might expect from HA. “It’s lifestyle not just tailoring,” he tells us. “Softer, elegant, modern”. Savile Row is looking back to look old school Hollywood suave come the spring.
So often runway fashion and streetwear crossover fails, but not with Scouser Christopher Shannon who always manages to nail it. To a sound track of the London Posse (Money Mad) and Dillenger, his ghetto influenced string vests melded with sweat shirts in white are both wearable and edgy. The almost Comme des Garcons panel/graphic shirt designs continued, and his grasp of repeated prints and patterns including Shannon’s initials – CS was an homage to pure Moschino style, also given the harmonious and dynamic colourways; a palette of white was used as a foil to various pastels - sunshine yellow and lilac. White Timberland boots and deck shoes finished the look. If Grazia Daily was 25 we would totally be dropping this look.
James Long kicked off with some FROW drama; Adam Ant’s PA was desperately trying to get him seated quite near kick off time to no avail. Alas, poor Adam had to stand while James delivered. Long’s mottled caramel and chocolate pony skin blotchy bikers were a key piece for this season, and definitely worth a shufty if you like that sort of thing. Not only is Long good with leather, but his tonal knit work is pretty spot-on too.
Shannon showed back to back with JW Anderson, who managed to concoct something rather sensitive, wearable and (dare we say it) nice, from disparate elements ranging from what looked like rave-pattern imagery, Liberty prints, Swarovski necklaces, rockabilly petrol pump attendants and even some knee-length shorts reminiscent of Beavis and Butthead. Anderson presented a remarkably poignant spectacle that all made sense once the lasers and dry ice were in place for the dramatic final walk out. Grazia Daily grabbed an exclusive chat with JW himself, who explained the whole amalgam rather better than us.
Check back here tomorrow for Part 2 of our Menswear round-up!
- Tom Stubbs and Alex Butt