Tisci Ends Givenchy Couture Shows, Bans Black

22 June 2010

givenchy couture

lnterestinger and interestinger. As previously discussed, this month's Pre/Resort collections have suddenly becoming a whole new season of full-on catwalks shows, (which admittedly, took even Grazia Daily a little by surprise), but it's a move that makes sense, given that designers are starting to sell at least as much, if not more, from these in-betweeny collections rather than their main Spring/Summer Autumn/Winter season's ranges. So perhaps it comes as no surprise that something had to give elsewhere in the fashion calendar, and following news hot off the wire this morning, that something appears to be the couture.

Givenchy Creative Director Riccardo Tisci has announced that the house will no longer host a catwalk show for its haute couture collection. lnstead, starting from July 6th, couture clients (and very select editors) will be received at the salon (an elegant eighteenth-century townhouse on the Place Vendôme in Paris) for individual, private appointments, where a capsule collection of ten looks can be viewed on models, static mannequins and 'artistic lookbooks'.

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Grazia Daily is in two minds about this development; on the one hand, we really, really love the couture shows, but on the other, we think the idea of returning to a time when couture was a more discreet, intimate experience is kind of fabulous. This seems to be Tisci's thinking too, "I want to make couture even more special than it is, and not just another catwalk show...[a] special, high-level service."

And given that most couture clients are, by definition, trillionairesses, they are therefore very unlikely to want to appear at high profile/high security risk events, sitting next to paparazzi-courting celebrities. Of course, couture is all in the details; the quality, the cut, the construction, the tiiiny handsewn stitches and beautiful linings inside a garment, so close-up examination of the clothes is probably more appropriate than a giant catwalk show anyway,  "people can really experience the couture moment: See it, touch it." says Tisci. The new salon presentation will allow the designer to concentrate on these subtleties in his designs, rather than the in-your-face showmanship that makes for a great photo. lnteresting then, that Tisci has also announced that he is banning himself from using his trademark colour - black (which would work well in a smaller setting).

Oh, and just in case you were thinking this might be a cost-cutting measure indicating perhaps another move towards The Death Of Couture, it has been estimated that these individual appointments will cost Givenchy 35% more than the traditional catwalk presentation. Book us in, please.


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