It’s menswear time in Milan . . . and, although we normally only keep half an eye on the boys side of things, we couldn’t resist getting a bit involved with Sarah Burton’s first collection as Creative Director of the Alexander McQueen brand. It’s the second collection to have come from the fashion house since the designer’s death earlier this year, but the first to have come soley from the hands of Miss Burton.
The baggy, rumpled trousers at half mast and the tailored jackets and trenches recall the last spring collection from McQueen himself – the basic silhouette remains. But we couldn’t help but notice that the garms themselves seemed a bit cleaner. Last spring, neat single breasted blazers came adorned with navy paint smears, a black jacket with what looked like tailor’s chalk and some pants and shirts smeared with paint hand prints. Meanwhile, in his final menswear collection before he died, AW10, McQueen featured intricately patterned knits and prints.
Sarah’s vision does seem to differ on the subject of embellishment and decoration. Is this the shape of things to come?
- Naomi Attwood