Phoebe Philo, the name on every fashion editors’ lips, and now, the trousers on all of their hips, has brought out the Celine resort collection to much approval and sage nodding of heads. (Not for the minimalists any screeching or jumping up and down in their clogs, you see).
Her confident, consistent collection had a couple of recurrent themes. It was somehow very 70’s, yet very modern at the same time, with several polo necks (surely achingly due for a revival) and her boldest flares yet with a very 'sta-prest'-looking knife-sharp crease down the front. There were flowy blouses either with or without a pussy bow, looking light and summer-appropriate. After a S/S'10 show making everyone look at camel and beige in a new light, and a navy-washed A/W'10, flat brown or khaki stood out as key colours for Cruise.
Trouser suits moved with a reassuring swishyness, worn with pared down wooded heels; and large, luxe, clutches accompanied many of the looks. You could almost hear the editors licking their lips. The final look, a white, Grecian column dress, surely an idea that has been done by so many designers - draped with glitz at Versace or plain and shell-like by Calvin or Narciso - yet somehow Philo had made it uniquely her own. Minimal – yes, but not clinical.
- Naomi Attwood