You can always rely on Viktor and Rolf to create a fashion moment (remember last season’s chainsaw-gored tulle ball gowns?). Sure enough, moments ago, their show opened with 90s cult model Kristen McMenamy striding out robot-like to the industrial tick tocky machinery music soundtrack wearing layers and layers of piled up clothing. And following her onto the catwalk, were the designers themselves, who began peeling off the layers of clothing, stripping her right down to a nude sequinned corset.
Viktor and Rolf remained on the catwalk dressing & undressing their models and restyling them on a revolving turntable in front of audience. Undressing one model, dressing the next in the discarded piece.... Models are like dolls to be dressed in the V&R factory. Cape coats become fitted tailored pieces once V&R have worked their magic! Linings pulled from coats to make other jackets. Zips are key to this versatile collection.
Black and ruffles seem to be the order of the day - layers of black on black in different fabrics and textures - silky sporty jackets, monochrome tweed and wool with cinched waists. Crop check trousers, beautiful grey and black textured, oversized tailored coats. There are leather caps, black patent bag, and bodysuits. A Swarovski jewelled coat with a neckline like a ruffled flower with the model's head poking out of the centre. The audience spontaneously burst into applause for one extraordinary ruffled skirt – shaped like a martini glass – starting in a tutu style before ending in a ruffled ankle length column.
The Viktor and Rolf catwalk is illustrated with cartoons of industrial symbols like cogs, electrical pylons, screws, spanners, and factory buildings. Viktor and Rolf carrying out their styling work on the models like scientists or engineers. The models wear nude make-up and blonde ponytails under their worker caps and black shades give the models a clone like feel.
Kristen McMenamy is now re-dressed to her original smothered state. The crowd go wild!
The spectacle was watched from the FROW by a headband-clad Lindsay Lohan (erm, shouldn’t she be preparing for the Ungaro show on Monday?) and Beth Ditto in a black oufit by Vivienne Westwood and YSL, with Louis Vuitton high heeled brogues.
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