It is becoming increasingly apparent with each season that the genius of Erdem Moralioglu is two-fold: first, in his stunning signature prints and second, in his incredible ability to appeal to everyone, from the pattern purists to the printophiles, from fashionistas to First Wives. The Turkish/Canadian RCA-trained designer has made headlines recently by dressing Michelle Obama, Sarah Brown (who wore the protégé’s pieces to open London Fashion Week) and Samantha Cameron, who had a ringside seat for his autumn/winter 2010 show.
Describing his inspirations for the season as the snow, Ryan McGinley's new photo series Moonmilk and the flora and fauna of Greenland (where his twin sister is currently making a documentary), Erdem's show played on an other-worldly and romantic vision of florals, tempered with a strong, sophisticated edge.
Models walked down the stairs at the WC1 exhibition hall in a palette of ox-blood reds, dark oranges, green and browns, teamed with light neutrals. There were layered bodice ruffles for the romantic and elegant floor-sweeping gowns for the glamorous, all paired with tough boots for the bloggers (wishful thinking, perhaps!).
Prim shirt dresses were given a playful touch with a swallow design but Erdem isn't just the 'prince of prints'. A hooded camel duffel felt like an instant best-seller, while a brown leather trench looked set to become a modern classic and long lace dresses felt like a modern-twist on Victoriana. Jack of all trades – and it seems master of them, too.
by Amy Marks