This morning we paid a visit to the studio of designer David Koma, for an exclusive peek at his AW 10 collection, which will be hitting the catwalk this Friday. The atmosphere in his Clerkenwell base was surprisingly calm, and the designer himself looked relaxed and dapper in Versace! David has become something of a media star as Cheryl Cole and Beyonce have recently worn his designs. He has become known for his heavily embellished show-stopping dresses.
But after seeing his new collection, that may need to be reconsidered. Inspired by Italian futurism, including artist Fortunato Depero (see below) and sculptor Umberto Boccioni, David has taken a more mature approach to his collections. Using the best leather and cashmere, he has designed in contradictions of hard and soft – hard lines against soft shapes, hard fabrics against soft as butter materials. The results are beautiful and the production quality is second to none. ‘I love it when girls look beautiful, so I want to emphasise their bodies and not distort them,’ he told us. There are some more bonkers designs, of course, that are heavily embellished, but even those have a sophisticated air that you can imagine on a moneyed woman of a certain age and style (not just a 20-something popstress on stage). When David Koma’s collection is shown this Friday you will see a commercial collection, that is all the better for it. It still has all the essence of David, but this time we imagine that international department store and boutique buyers will be beating down his door for appointments – and rightly so.
- Kay Barron, Fashion News and Features Editor