May the force be with you. Or may it be with ACNE. The super-cool Swedish brand showed their Star Wars inspired AW ’10 collection in east London last night, to a large audience of the who’s who of UK’s fashion press, who all braved the rain. It was the first time that ACNE had shown their collection as a catwalk show presentation in London, although this being Acne, of course it wasn’t a straightforward catwalk show. The shadows of models hauntingly appeared on the long ivory curtain hanging over the stage, long before they did. After their S/S '10 collection of soft tailoring inspired by spiritual moods and alternative movements, this season is much harder. The audience craned their necks to see the collection of utility vests, graffiti-d trousers, perforated leather dresses and soft-as-butter jackets, while we imagine the incredible shearling jackets and clomper stompers of boots will already have a waiting list. The colour palette was kept tight – black, silvery grey, navy, nude and ivory – and some looks were completed by gold wrist, arm and ankle cuffs and fringed scarves. With Acne, a lot of the time the beauty is in the detail, but this collection proves that Acne can more than hold their own in a catwalk environment too. Whether this hard-edge will set the tone for the whole A/W '10 season, only time will tell when NY Fashion Week kicks off next week. But we are ready for it if it does.
- Kay Barron