So Riccardo Tisci is softening up? When even fashion's God of Goth dips into the macaroon jar and helps himself to a handful of candy colours, you know fashion is in the grip of a fantasy of froth. The flounces were building up a head of steam through Armani, Chanel and Dior. So when Riccardo Tisci chose Natalia Vodionova in a huge ballgown of billowing pink and purple organza to close his show, fashion’s flight to a feather-trimmed fantasy seemed complete.
Frankly, I have never had less use for a pink sparkly dress myself. But there is something in the air that makes me want one more than ever. Doom, gloom, death and destruction everywhere: it could drive a girl to drink. If you are a rich girl, however, Paris proposes that it drive you instead to the much prettier option of some sequin sprinkled celadon satin.
It’s not unheard of for fashion to take refuge in escapism in a crisis. It only takes a whiff of conflict for there to be a run on lace. And this couture week, as Paris shivered in sub-zero temperatures, the catwalks were all about a yearning for something soft and pretty.
Riccardo hadn’t gone completely soft. There were still options for the couture customer who likes to temper her glamour with a bit of urban grit. But the signature studs were missing, replaced by ostrich feathers (and, yes, a few vulture plumes too!). And the customary biker jacket was completely missing. Instead there was a languorous tailcoat in duchess satin or delicate organdie. One cocktail dress was like a pastry chef’s confection of millefeuile layers of organza in a pretty, powdery palette.
Three column dresses heavily embroidered with sequins and cut in black, emerald green and violet added a flourish of baroque drama to the finale section.
But then came that last dress that was so finely and profusely frilled, it looked like a bouquet of giant pom-poms.
You have to admit that Paris is in the grip of a frill fest when even Givenchy goes girly.
- Paula Reed
Stay tuned for more show reports direct from Grazia's style director in Paris and don’t forget to check out Paula's reports on Chanel, Armani Prive and Christian Dior. Plus keep an eye on our Twitter page for more of the latest news!