12 January 2010

So You Think You Can Dress: Trussardi

 

Yes, OK, so we were also watching So You Think You Can Dance over the weekend. Unlike you, we were not focusing on that bleachy-haired guy or the Charlie Chaplin inspired hip-hop bench routine. We were just totally mesmerised by Miss Deeley’s sharp-shouldered dress (nice to have Cat and her utterly gawpable onscreen wardrobe back on UK TV, non?)

Our woman on the inside, Grazia’s contributing fashion editor Anna Foster, who also moonlights as Cat’s stylist, tells us that the dress and shoes were by Trussardi 1991. Does that name ring a bell? Trussardi is a heritage fashion label that’s making a big comeback this season, thanks to the new man at the helm: Milan Vukmirovic. Foster told us what she loves about the label: 'Milan Vukmirovic's finishings - such as the hook and eyes used down the sleeves and the shoulder detail of the dress I chose for Cat - are only subtle, but it is this attention to detail throughout the collection and combined with his striking silhouettes which made Trussardi a must for Cat.'

Now called Trussardi 1911 (that’s what it says on the Trussardi family crest – yep, next year is the house’s centenary), Spring 2010 may have marked Vukmirovic’s (genius) debut womenswear collection for the label, but he’s already been designing Trussardi's menswear for a couple of years.

For women, Vukmirovic has brought amazoid Aztec hippy prints in citrus colours, slim trousers and cropped little leather jackets for spring, and some wicked accessories. But it was the Trussardi 1911 cocktail dresses that were super-fierce – as demonstrated by Deeley. As Foster says, 'For me, Trussardi was one of my favourite collections. The fabulous jumpsuits, knitted leggings and cropped leather tassel jackets should be on everyone's wish list.'


Not so surprising when you realise Vukmirovic is Mr Fashion. He was the designer who took over when Jil Sander left her namesake label, was one of the founders of the very wonderful Colette boutique in Paris, and is also editor-in-chief of the bi-annual French menswear magazine l’Officiel Hommes. An amazing CV; so we’re intrigued to see how he does at Trussardi, a label which, while always known for elegant understated luxury, has somewhat fallen off the fashion radar in recent times.

 

 

Originally established as a glove company by Dante Trussardi, before accessories and finally ready-to-wear were added under the house’s elegant greyhound logo, the family business has been blighted by tragedy in recent decades. Grandson Nicola, who inherited the business after the sudden deaths of his father and brother in the ’70s, was killed in a car crash in 1999, and four years later his son and successor, Francesco, died in almost identical circumstances. Since then, Nicola's daughters Gaia and Beatrice have taken over, with Beatrice working closely alongside Vukmirovic.

The fact that the label has already caught the eye of style maven like Anna Foster is a Very Good Sign. The debut collection of Trussardi 1911 womenswear is set to hit Harrods at the end of February. Cat's black cotton dress, £1,437, and black suede boots with gold leather trim, £534, both Trussardi 1911 at Harrods.

[Oh, and watch this space for our regular weekly updates on What Cat’s Wearing…]


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