PFW Show Report: Viktor and Rolf Cut Back

04 October 2009


The Viktor and Rolf boys are back in the house, and back as serious catwalk contenders. After a couple of wobbly seasons where they got a little bit ‘political statement’ on us, yesterday at Paris Fashion Week they delivered a fun, frothy and brilliant collection for SS ’10. To the sounds of Roisin Murphy, performing exclusive new tracks from her forthcoming album (which sounds great btw, with a little bit of Dizzy Rascal thrown in), models walked out in gravity-defying tulle creations. They started off rather low-key – a black tuxedo jacket wrapped in lavender tulle – but quickly it escalated into something bigger and bigger and bigger. The V&R boys are feeling big shapes this season! Huge meringue dresses in lemon, mint green, pale pink and blue featured acres and acres of tulle, tightly packed together. But the size wasn’t the issue, it was the shapes that had been sliced out of them that made them so visually confusing but hilarious at the same time. ‘There’s a certain aggression to it, to the act of cutting, and we like that because that way it becomes contemporary,’ the designers explained backstage. ‘We didn’t want to create plain ball gowns.’ Obviously we won’t be putting in personal orders for those – although personal space on the Tube would never be an issue again – but there was plenty of beautiful, feminine pieces in-between that will prove to be a hugely popular with buyers. Meanwhile a huge disco-ball globe of the earth spun on it’s axis at the end of the runway – dwarfing the models and heavily-pregnant Roisin. If this show was any reflection of how Viktor and Rolf see the world, we want to spend some time looking out of their rose-tinted glasses.


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