This season marks five years since McCartney first started working with Adidas. A lifelong vegetarian, and figurehead for the anti-fur brigade, McCartney always pursues projects with integrity. There’s news this week that McQueen will open a series of pop-up shops for his Puma line, which sounds fun, but how many other designers sell their collaboration lines in their own flagship stores, as Stella’s Adidas line does? Not only that, but her sportwear line is so rated by the industry that two years ago, Adidas by Stella McCartney was the grand finale to London Fashion Week. This season she did a studio present instead.
Injecting a bit of feminine cool into a sports label is not an easy task (let’s face it, most sportswear manufacturers simply add a bit of pink and some bust-crushing support panels). But Stella makes it look easy. The rubber bonding that glues together the panels on her vest tops has pretty scalloped edging, slouchy jersey short-shorts have a gathered ‘paper bag’ waistband, a T shirt’s cap-sleeves are pin-tucked with tiny pleats.
New for Spring 2010, the range now covers triathlons, apparently the next big thing amongst sporty types, and, cycling, to go with the current lines for running, 'gym dance' (zebra print leggings and puff sleeved hoodies), yoga (all soft peaches and greys, cape-sleeved hoodies, and genius ruched leggings), tennis, golf (military jackets and cropped combats) and swimming (yacht-ready purple costumes with cut-outs).
Apparently Stella herself runs, so this is her favourite line; the blue foil cowl-neck zip-up jackets are genius – too cool to waste on exercising, ditto the tonal print ‘Stella Stella Stella’ logo T shirts, vests, leggings and nylon bags - as modelled by Anouck Lepere, the new face of the brand - which are sure to fly out of all her stores.
Stella’s current Adidas ambassador is model-pretty 19-year-old Danish tennis pro Caroline Wozniacki, who gets to hit the court in pockety asymmetric zipped anoraks with gathered at the cuff for that essential Stella femininity, worn with micro ra-ra skirts, or puffball shorts, in very-Stella shades of damson, palest blue and nude. But, of course, Stella’s not just dressing her. I spotted one of the designer’s tweets last week; ‘don’t worry Caroline, you’ll win next time and you looked beautiful.’ Sweet.
- Angela Buttolph