Fashion Week: A buyer's notes

17 March 2009

Peter Pilotto AW 09

Yes, the designers impressed Fashion Editors on the front row, but what did the buyers make of this season's collections? Their view has always been essential - after all they're the ones who actually decide which creations will end up in store - but in the current economic crisis, it's even more important for designers to impress. So we had a quick chat with Bridget Cosgrave, Fashion and Buying Director for Matches, to find out whether her buying habits have changed and what caught her eye this season. ‘I'm a buyer who buys from the heart anyway. We don't analyse price too carefully so long as it's relatively realistic,' she told us. ‘It's actually an exciting time for a buyer because we're not buying anything we feel luke warm about. We've reduced our open size so it makes you really focussed. And I think the designers delivered. There were some amazing collections this season.'

So what can we expect to see hanging on the rails of Matches boutiques - and backs of the most stylish women - this autumn then? ‘The guys at Peter Pilotto have so much maturity,' she says. ‘We were the first store to buy the collection last season and had 100% sales through. This season they've really taken it to the next step. The drape dress in lava print dress seemed to epitomise the heat of the moment and I love the way you can wear their dresses with boleros more than one way.' Erdem also impressed, with stunning use of colour, and Bridget is definitely buying one of Mary Katrantzou perfume bottle print dresses.

But if dresses were the stand-out pieces from London Fashion Week, in Paris it was all about the rock chick. ‘Biker leather sales have gone through the roof lately so we were pleased to see that theme continue in Paris,' she said. ‘Let's hope women want to feel sexy. Because we've bought Sophia Kokolasaki's leather trench, Stella's over the knee boots and a lot of Helmut Lang.'

Sounds good to us, Bridget! Take a look at her key pieces from London and Paris A/W '09 shows below and start saving now...   


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