Just two days until LFW mania is upon us again so we're still checking in with designers at the last minute to get a sneaky preview on all the exciting collections gracing the catwalks come Friday. The Jaeger London studio was surprisingly calm: rails of nearly finished clothes were up, sketches and mood boards were artfully dotted around and the team were happily bobbing alongside Jaeger London's head of design Karen Boyd - the same team who have collectively turned around Jaeger's not-so-cool-but-classic image from three seasons ago into the one-stop-shop for a major trend fix. So with a cuppa in one hand and a furry goat hair sample in the other, we chatted to Karen about what we've got to look forward to for the show on Sunday...
FASHION PHILOSOPHY FOR A/W '09:
This season Jaeger London are playing on their current strengths for fashion forward yet wearable outfits, whilst taking inspiration from heritage pieces (they have a huge archive in Westminster Library of all the past ads, plus, it's their 125th anniversary this year). The key focus is on fabulous tailoring in jackets, skirts, trousers and coats. Karen is really excited about their new sculptural, structural and quite graphic take for A/W, since it's such a leap away from this season's very floaty and folkloric collection. And most importantly, the brand wants their pieces to be identifiably Jaeger through and through.
Tailoring, tailoring and more tailoring! It's the essence of Jaeger London from the past but with a modern twist. Karen has looked back to Jaeger's old collections plus Art Deco and Modernism to study graphic and structural pieces for inspiration i.e. a coat sleeve shape from the 1960s, or a 1970s monochrome print, or even stirrup pants from a ski suit! The whole collection doesn't look retro or vintage at all, but it cleverly employs little ideas here and there to modernise a fun, wearable and striking new wardrobe. In a series of black (tons of black!), parchment, deep purple and forest green, the collection moves from linear stripes to spiky shapes and textures (we can't wait to see the shattered crystal necklaces that Swarovski are providing) to curved and circular pattern pieces.
THIS IS HOW WE DO IT:
The collection pays particular detail to intricate fabrics and finishes, which means cloth production and research have been very important. Look out for boiled wools, shattered glass images digitally printed, laser-cut felts and shaggy leathers. The collection was started on straight away after the S/S ‘09 show in September. Jaeger London have a core of three designers with separate teams for knitwear and accessories who all work under Jaeger's design director Stuart Stockdale (and btw, expect some must-have bags again this season).
It's hard to narrow it down, but here are our top five:
Goat hair shearling and patent leather stripe coat (it's a fashion beast!)
Parchment coloured banded and cropped tailored jacket with sharp shoulders.
Black patent and matte striped knee-high boots
Forest green and black colour block dress
Circular panelled skirt that gracefully swishes as you walk
- Hannah Almassi