18 February 2009

Jonathan Kelsey: ‘It’s time for a thinner heel’

The shoe designer whose cult following grows by the day has a dinky, but perfectly organised studio in a former stable tucked off the high street in Primrose Hill. The designer has created Mulberry's shoes for the second season in a row, and now he's doing Pucci too! We stopped by for a pre-LFW sneak preview...

INSPIRATIONS A/W ‘09

‘Camden Town is just five minutes from where I live in London. I spend so much time going out there socially, but I used to block out the crazy shops, the cool kids, the people hanging out there on the bridge.' (Kelsey is referring to all the heavy metal, goth, punk and cyberpunk shops selling dodgy leathers and cheap boots in Camden.) ‘So I decided to go down to Camden like a tourist, as if I was there for the first time, and really drink it all in. There are some of the worst shoe and leatherwear shops in the world there; that are so bad they are good. I got inspired by the leather clothes I saw: the fringing details, the zips, the rivets and studs on jackets especially. And I'm really inspired by Siouxsie Sioux and Joan Jett. In fact I'm really developing an affinity with rock chicks – Courtney Love bought some shoes from me the other day.'

THE NEW HEEL SHAPE

‘I feel it is time for a thinner heel. I will keep doing my cone heel on a few styles, but after I started seeing people copying them I had to move on. That's really the biggest change I have made for A/W – a super thin heel on the majority of my styles. In fact the measurement I gave the factory is the measurement for a pencil straight out of my bag.'

A/W ‘09 PHILOSOPHY

‘The girl in my mind for winter is definitely out enjoying herself. She is a creature of the night. She loves music. She loves wearing ripped up old jeans, a rock t-shirt and very expensive, sexy shoes. She loves her biker jacket! And if she isn't that girl in reality, she has been a wild child, or is in her head!'

GRAZIA LOVES

The Ava: Black patent leather inspired by the cuff of a leather jacket, with a square open toe.

The Eclipse: Over-the-knee ostrich skin boots with rivets

  

The XS: Fringed knee-high boots with tassels.

 

PS: Don't forget to check out our other LFW sneak previews...

 

- Melanie Rickey


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