LFW preview: Henry Holland’s A/W inspirations

17 February 2009

Another day, another London Fashion Week sneak preview. Yesterday, we dropped in on Henry at his cramped Denmark Street studio. There are seven people, including his Auntie Cheryl, working on the collection. In fact, Auntie Cheryl (pictured) is also working on his amazing polka-dot Levi’s, due for delivery in the shops in the next week!



Henry is helping London Fashion Week get the fab factor – Agyness Deyn will fly in to model for him. His is also guaranteed to be one of the best front rows of the week as his mates Alexa Chung, Lily Allen (‘if she can get a break from touring'), Daisy Lowe and the Geldof sisters have confirmed attendance.


‘I've been decorating my house in Primrose Hill for about three years. In fact, I've spent every other weekend for the last three years in a Dulux paint room, and the Dulux colour chart goes everywhere with me! I am always running around with one,' he says. ‘Katie Hillier [his accessories designer who also works for Marc Jacobs] is always making fun of me and my colour chart. But I woke up in the middle of the night with the idea for this collection, and it's based on the colour charts. I just started drawing it at 3am. The same coloured stripes get lighter as you move down the body. The silhouette is graphic but pared down with gently squared off shoulders. The clothes are definitely figure flattering. This is not armour. It's softer, more gentle. All the lines are square; the darts, the neckline, the pockets. But the fabrics are soft and tactile. We've used wool from Huddersfield. Cashmere. Mongolian wool. My big inspiration for the way we put it all together is this amazing woman called Iris Apfel.'


‘I really feel like the kind of people who would wear House of Holland are the people that I hang around with, or would like to hang out with. You know, young – aged from 25 to 35, or older.’ But his chief muse is, of course, Agyness Deyn.  ‘The shapes and pieces of this one can translate to a much wider audience. There are still a lot of cheeky pieces and fun fashion. I want to keep our prices realistic, so we have really worked hard on that. Oh, and we're all about accessories, too. We've got amazing hosiery – we collaborated with Pretty Polly – and we've developed bags and jewellery with Katie Hillier. Our shoe designer is Atalanta Weller.'


The HOH twinset. The one-armed sweater and the one armed cardigan... Put them together and it's a new take on the twinset. Genius! The Swarovski crystal-studded high- waist trousers, and the trompe l'oeil-effect 'suspender' tights with Pretty Polly are also fab.

See you after the show!

Melanie Rickey


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