NYFW may have only just begun, but with over 40 shows already presented there’s plenty of trend-making material for we fashion boffins to start analysing...
Alexander Wang S/S'14 [Catwalking]
Some of the new generation big’uns like Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Altuzarra have now presented their vision for the spring/summer 2014 landscape; which includes logo-branding, elegantly louche and sexy separates, a futuristic slant on mid-century couture and some seriously luxed-up sportswear. Smaller – but equally exciting – labels are also following some of these leads, as well as carving out many of their own. Here are the five big things we’ve noticed so far...
1. Elevated Sportswear:
L-R: Rag & Bone, Lacoste, Alexander Wang, Louise Goldin, Cushnie et Ochs [Catwalking]
NYFW is no stranger to the sportswear trend – the Big Apple’s designers practically invented it - and it has been exuberantly mined on repeat for the past few summers. For the new season ahead, forget the standard gym kit and go-faster into ultra-luxury. Louise Goldin’s body-skimming Tron-like lines pleased the FROW, Rag & Bone’s colourful riff on the cricket jumper will no doubt be a street style favourite and Lacoste’s new take on tennis gear has hot-day-dressing sorted.
2. Striped Line-Up:
L-R: Altuzarra, Jill Stuart, Peter Som [Catwalking], Jonathan Simkhai, Ostwald Helgason [Style.com]
Stripes may be a classic summer print go-to, but you won’t find an average Breton on the runways of NYFW. Instead, think of eye-boggling monochrome graphic lines, like those at Peter Som, or jazzy chunks of colour as so artfully spliced onto skirts and shoes at Ostwald Helgason. Altuzarra’s cotton shirting separates provide a ladylike route for showing your summer stripes, should the rest all be too fun.
Prabal Gurung's vision of the future via the middle of the 20th Century [Catwalking]
The ‘40s, ‘50s and ‘60s have all been plunged for inspiration, with each and every decade being catapulted into the future via high-shine fabrics, an injection of sportswear or by a rejection of traditional dressing rules: like clashing prints, vibrantly mismatched colours or hi-tec accessorising. Prabal Gurung leads the back-to-the-future-and-then-back-again time travellers, with Creatures of the Wind and Honor putting in some radical twists on retro, too.
L-R: Suno, Honor, Creatures of the Wind [Catwalking]
4. Sterling Silver:
L-R: Jason Wu, Rag & Bone, Suno, Altuzarra [Catwalking]
Not only has this gold’s value continued to increase in the jewellery market, it’s enjoyed a mighty strong presence on the runways for the past few years. Now the next mega molten to step into the ring is silver – whether poured into dresses at Altuzarra, iridescent in sportswear at Rag & Bone or used in fancy brocades at Suno, it’s a sterling effort.
5. Top Buttoning:
Creatures of the Wind, Alexander Wang [Catwalking]
We’ve long been waiting for this menswear styling trick to make the leap over into womenswear and now it’s happening: time to leave your top button done up ladies, this is your new silhouette. Of course, chaps don’t do it the Alexander Wang way – with an expanse of toned tummy on show – but with more of the Creatures of the Wind tack. That’s a jacket layered over a tee, shirt or jumper.
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