It's been an all singing and all dancing (quite literally with Gloria Gaynor adding some old-skool showbiz to the 30th anniversary Moschino runway) round of runways this time in Milano, and a truckload of sparky new trends have emerged.
Pat Cleveland steals the show at Moschino [Jason Lloyd Evans]
Of course, in addition to this heart-pumping newness, there are pillars of the Italian fashion famiglia that like to play true to core values and signature strands of style genealogy. But that doesn't mean reinvention or evolution is off the cards. Red carpeteers will forever swoon over a sexy Versace gown that's held together with almost nothing but pheromones and a few stitches, for example. Cavalli wouldn’t be Cavalli without a slithering of snakeskin and Dolce & Gabbana's little lace numbers that often reveal underpinnings are still every girl’s dream ticket/lifestyle.
The overall mood was upbeat, fun, whimsical… whether we’re talking about what could possibly be the standout show of the season – Prada – and Miuccia's swirling rainbows of colour, styled with utility-wear and clashing Wes Anderson-stylee sports-socks, or the soft and feminine chiffon wiles of Alberta Ferretti or easy cotton frocks at Jil Sander. Super-florals are still going strong after a healthy bloom at LFW, but here are some other trends of note:
1: THE GREAT SHOE GANG:
L-R: Bottega Veneta slingbacks, jewelled flats and heels from Prada, tie-ups from Roberto Cavalli, flatforms from Marni & gladiators from Dolce & Gabbana [Style.com]
While shoes in themselves aren't a trend, we realise they're a fairly essential quotidian kind of thang, but the footwear action at MFW was truly beautiful, varied and exciting. Once again, the home of top-notch leather goods is looking full of its own greatness. We're particularly eager to step into Prada’s jewelled Velcro heels and Dolce’s new take on the gladiator.
2. CANVAS TO CLOTHING:
L-R: Moschino, Aquilano Rimondi, Stella Jean, Jil Sander, Prada [Catwalking]
Treating the clothing as canvas, Prada, Jil Sander, Moschino and newcomer Stella Jean all motif’d to the max.
Prada finale [Jason Lloyd Evans]
3. TOUCHY FEELY:
L-R: Fendi, Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Giorgio Armani [Catwalking]
Continuing from London’s 3D floral-fest, in Milan you’ll find head-to-toe embellishment, laser cut leathers, chainmail, embroidery… anything and everything to be touchy feeling.
4. ANKLE SWINGERS:
L-R: Gianfranco Ferre, Missoni, Fendi, Jil Sander, MaxMara [Catwalking]
The new maxi length hits just about the ankle. Perfect for showing off the afore-mentioned footwear. As seen as Fendi, Ferre, Marni, MaxMara, Bottega Veneta and more…
Bottega Veneta's ankle-swinging skirts were ultra-elegant [Catwalking]
5. PRIMARY BRIGHTS:
L-R: Prada, DSquared, Alberta Ferretti [Catwalking]
The colour wheel at Prada was in a successful spin, using a clash-a-rama of primary and secondary brights fastened with neutrals. Elsewhere, blue, green, orange and yellow collided in prints or as colour-blocked separates.
6. LONE RANGERS:
L-R: Roberto Cavalli, Versace, Tod's [Catwalking]
There was something about Tod’s, Roberto Cavalli and Versace that evoked the idea of a Grand Canyon-roaming cowgirl character, dressed sleekly in white, with more venom and fire than Kill Bill’s Bride. Yeehah detailing looked modern in this clean monochrome palette.