13 September 2013 by

#Grazia360: In The Studio With J JS Lee Talking Tilda Swinton, Jellyfish And LFW

Tilda Swinton and jellyfish - what do they have in common? The deft hands of tailoring pro and young London talent, Jackie Lee - or as you'll probably her know by her brand name, J JS Lee.

Jackie in her studio with her S/S'14 rail and moodboard

Following a riotously popular autumn/winter season where Jackie's ultra-violet and icy white minimalist dresses, knits and tailoring don't stay in the press office for more than two seconds before some high profile publication are re-requesting them, GraziaDaily thought it was about time to pay Miss Lee a visit.

 

Two of our favourite J JS Lee pieces from S/S'14 - a scultped pink dress and her classic long-linge double breasted coat

In her buzzing Dalston flat-meets-studio Jackie and her team (complete with Sunny the attention seeking dog) have been working very, very hard. A few days before her S/S’14 catwalk and everything has received it’s final stitch and is ready to go - bar a bit of hand painting required for some clinically flat white shoes, and that all important model casting.  As her final show sponsored by the ‘best ever’ NewGEN a change is in the air. It’s the biggest range J JS Lee has offered to date - complete with umbrellas for our, shall we say surprising summer weather - and its one of her most technically challenging, too. Well, you don't think it’d be easy to encapsulate the movement, sheen and opacity of a jellyfish and then turn it into the kind of slick suiting Tilda would wear, do you?

Jackie's studio: play spot the GRAZIA...

'It started with a picture of these 1950s bottles and they reminded me of jellyfish, so that’s how that inspiration began,' says Jackie fresh off a flight from Milano where Franca Sozzani had summoned her favourite new talents for an exclusive fashion show before MFW. 'So then I went to the London Aquarium and it’s incredible. The way they move and the clever tank lighting that up-lights them and changes their colours... I keep all of my inspiration on my mood board up in the studio so I never loose focus. I go back to it all the time.'

J JS Lee's running order

Jackie may be moving into a more colourful direction with her new found love for vibrant pastels - its ice cream shades for spring and you’ll even finds Lee's debut print: classic gingham- but her integral focus point to the JS Lee brand remains: tailoring.

Jackie's embossed collar has become a signature design

Jackie obsesses over the minutiae detail that menswear can languish in and repeatedly turns these boyish codes into something unmistakably feminine. ‘To me tailoring is all about luxury and quality and I love concentrating on those little important details' says Jackie who is considering branching out into menswear soon, 'My signature is the long-line double breasted coat with an embossed collar. This season it’s wax-printed and very bright, but it’s still all about the perfect fit.’ A piece that she’d no doubt like to see her muse in? 'Oh yes. Tilda is never off my mood board; she’s the exact lady I want. She can be boyish but feminine, quiet but powerful.’ As yet, Jackie hasn't met the fashion icon she first became hooked on during her time at Central St Martins. But with Dover St Market exclusively stocking her from the start and an amounting global interest in her brand, it’s about time Tilda took note…


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