Nicholas Kirkwood at Peter Pilotto, Roksanda and Erdem [Jason Lloyd Evans]
Nicholas Kirkwood might not have a show in London, but that doesn't mean his fashion week is relaxed. We chatted with the shoe designer at the May Fair Hotel, where the windows were covered in his metallic London Fashion Week designs all weekend, to find out what London Fashion Week is like for him.
Kirkwood holds his presentation in Paris, but also creates catwalk shoes in New York and London. This London Fashion Week he created shoes for Erdem, Roksanda and Peter Pilotto. The patent colour-block Roksanda booties are the shoe of London Fashion Week. We also heart the t-bar bow heels at Roksanda. Peter Pilotto opted for two-strap nude heels, whereas the models at Erdem wore stacked platforms in white and Erdem prints.
Kirkwood tells us that he looks at the designers' collections and moodboards and has to have a very different mindset. Kirkwood's shoes have been on 100 runway shows and he once worked on 15 shows in just one season. But Kirkwood says that he would never do that many shows again.
So how do the collaborations come about? 'I work for some designers each season and other times I am introduced by editors or friends.' But Kirkwood points out that it is hard for a young designer to collaborate in Paris and Milan as they use more established brands.
Does he worry about models doing a Naomi and taking a tumble in his stilettos? Kirkwood says that only two models have slipped in his shoes, but 'the floors are so slippery and some of the shoes are so high it can happen. What you don't want is a heel to snap, and that has never happened.'
As if coming up with the shoe of London Fashion Week wasn't enough Kirkwood also created the London Fashion Week creative this season. The design uses signature chevron pattern in metallics, which Kirkwood tells us feels 'very London.' This pattern was plastered over Somerset House and outside London Fashion Week's May Fair Hotel.