Giles is the latest designer to take part in #Grazia360 [Getty]
Giles Deacon's catwalk show is always guaranteed a few surprises - and this evening's extravanganza didn't disappoint. Cara Delevingne hit the catwalk with a ginormous bat stuck on her head, the model army wore princess dresses with Adidas trainers and Lily Allen made a shock return to the FROW. Meanwhile, Grazia Daily was backstage bringing you all the preparations as they happened (catch up on the action with our live blog). Not only that, but two weeks before Giles' latest creations hit the catwalk, we visited him at his studio to find out exactly how his collections come together. Here are ten LFW nuggets the designer revealed...
1. “I don’t like creating collections that have one, solid theme”
…much to the frustration of journalists who want to make their lives easier! If you’ve a visually and mentally inquisitive mind, you’re looking for all different types of inspiration. Some people may think it’s a curse, but the creative process can be fascinating when you’re concocting all of the ingredients for your soup and the result is the final collection.
Giles Spring Summer 2014 [Getty]
2. “You never know what you’ll find on my mood board”
There’s everything from a hilarious sketch of an owl wearing crotch-less knickers to a beautiful picture of Guinevere [Van Seenus]. When I’m designing, I’ll have one foot in the National Gallery looking at amazing paintings and one foot in a ‘70s sitcom and another foot in a sex shop – if I had three feet! I like that mix of austere with fun as well as something quite dark or theatrical. Then I work all of these elements into each collection.
Giles' Spring Summer 2014 moodboard [Grazia]
3. “Glen Luchford’s Instagram photos inspired the collection”
Instagram is a really interesting and informal outlet for photographers to show their work. Photographer Glen Luchford, an old friend of mine, posted amazing photos of Kate Moss and others so I got in touch and am now using them as the prints in the collection. It’s amazing that a lot of the looks have come from someone just deciding to post some snaps on a Sunday afternoon.
Giles was inspired by shots Glen Luchford posted on Instagram [Catwalking]
4. “Katie Grand knows how to find the perfect model line-up”
Two weeks before the show, Katie is in New York working on Marc Jacobs’ collection so she gets a getting a good idea of what girls would work. We always like a diverse cast with interesting personalities and strong women. It’s important to build relationships and Katie doesn’t just work with a model for one season then drop her. Take Missy Rayder, who we’ve worked with for nearly fourteen years. As for the model of this season, Edie Campbell is really interesting and she’s incredibly bright – did you know she’s just got a First degree at university and is planning to do a Masters? On the opposite extreme, you have Cara [Delevingne] who’s having an absolute ball and good luck to her because she works incredibly hard.
Edie Campbell and Cara Delevingne on the Giles catwalk [Catwalking]
5. “The S/S'11 show had a dream model line-up”
Iconic model Veruschka [Von Lehndorff] closed the show, Agyness Deyn opened it and Abby Clancy and Kelly Brook walked. It was fascinating to get the feedback afterwards, because people either loved it or could not understand it. The fashion industry is quite odd in lots of respects, but I was surprised at the people who didn’t like the different ages, different types and people that weren’t outwardly considered as “cool”. It was quite an eye opener! I’m not a snob so I like all sorts of people for all different reasons.
Agyness Deyn and Kelly Brook on the S/S'11 catwalk [Getty]
6. “The worst backstage drama is when a model doesn’t turn up”
When you’ve worked hard on these pieces for three to four month and they’re fitted specifically to someone’s shape and then they don’t show up, it’s hard to find another candidate at the last minute. It has happened, but thankfully it’s a very rare occurrence because of the calibre of girls we use. And you don’t want to mess with Katie Grand!
Backstage at Giles A/W'12 [Jason Lloyd Evans]
7. “But most pre-show hiccups are hilarious”
One season, I was checking the model line-up before the show and saw one of the big dresses that was closing the show had a salad bowl attached to it. It was literally about to go onto the runway with a bowl on the back! On a humour level, I found it hilarious, but from a professional level, not so much. There was another slip-up which did get onto the runway when a Twix wrapper got stuck on a dress. We now have a strict ‘no snacks’ rule.
Giles S/S'13 [Getty]
8. “I love having fun with the backstage passes”
We’ve had everything from Eastenders characters – my favourite was Ian Beale when he was homeless – to Kerry Katona and Judy Finnigan. This year, we’ve done extensive research on celebrities’ animal lookalikes. We’ve got a fantastic one of Cher with an Afghan hound and Nicki Minaj with a mental goldfish. My animal lookalike? A Labrador.
Grazia's backstage pass for Giles S/S'13 [Grazia]
9. “Isabella Blow will always be my perfect FROWer”
Everything was a lot more fun when she was around so if I could have anyone on my front row, it’d be her. She was a real favourite of mine and is a really missed character.
Isabella Blow at London Fashion Week [Getty]
10. “I celebrate after the show at a lovely London pub”
I go to the same place with people from the studio, Katie, Erin Morris, some of the buyers… I’m not a fan of formal after parties so I’d much rather get to the pub and celebrate with mates and industry friends. It’s good fun.
Watch how the Giles show came together in the gallery below...