Backstage Beauty: Marc Jacobs theatrics

15 September 2009

Things were literally hotting up last night at New York Fashion Week. The backstage space at the Marc Jacobs show was packed, tense and really, really hot. So although the finished looks might have appeared smooth and perfectly calm, creating them was anything but. ‘We went through a few versions until we decided on the top knot,’ hairstylist for REDKEN Guido told us backstage about the five versions of smooth and sleek top knots. ‘It’s a departure from last season and you never know what you’re going to get with Marc. He wanted the girls to look like performers, ballet dancers that had just come off-stage – someone you’re just not sure who she actually is.’ Simple yet technical, hair was pulled up on to the centre of the top of the head with a Mason Pearson brush and secured with grips. REDKEN’s glass serum was then used to twist the pony, which was pinned and set with Force 4 hairspray. ‘Marc is so aware of proportions, so he knows when a style is working.’

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The designer was indeed paying attention. Crouching on the floor, chatting with the models and stylist he was relaxed, but kept tweaking the girls. (Let’s ignore the naughty indoor smoking, shall we!) It made legendary make-up guru Francois Nars’s job somewhat hard. He was frantically trying to adjust looks for Marc right up until the girls walked the catwalk. Skin was paled down with NARS Siberia Sheer Matte foundation and snow loose powder, acting like a mask as if the girls had been 'performers' – their faces a white canvas. Another inspiration was dancer and choreographer Martha Graham. 'It's a surprise as you don't expect this for S/S, but why not?’ Francois said. ‘It's not obvious and [is] unexpected breaking-the-rules.' Lips were dark too, with velvet matte lip pencil in Pop Life. The nails were four different shades of OPI depending on the models skin tone: either barefoot Barcelona, Dolce De Leche, Samoan Sands, Malaysian Mist finished with Matte nail envy to leave a matte finish.


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