Jonathan Saunders Autumn Winter 2015: A Swinging Colour Symphony

Jonathan Saunders is the maestro of colour – each and every season he redefines the rules of complementary hues. Tonight’s jaw-droppingly good show highlighted that skill to great effect – it was so effortless and beautiful that even the colour shy would want to jump in head first – but by also referencing back to his highly successful breakout MA collection, Jonathan proved just how a woman can build a Saunders wardrobe over time as well as in an instant. And she has the means to – his collections are available at more high profile stockists than one can even begin to name-check.

When the first look entered the long runway at the Tate Britain (a mind-bendingly graduated, swirl-printed, funnel-necked dress in purple, pink and black) you caught a first glimpse of Saunders’ colour prowess but also, with a strong 1960s vibe (Stanley Kubrick, Barbara Hepworth and Allen Jones were just a few of Jonathan’s many visual references mentioned) how strongly he can reinterpret a style for the modern woman. In addition to the off-kilter colourways, a slightly longer-than-micro hemline, a easier, skimming dress fit than retro counterparts, plus extra-luxurious detailing like the rainbow striped pattern-cut inserts this looked thoroughly new, now. The prints and colours were bold, but Jonathan’s careful use of fabric (comfortable wools and crepes) and flattering silhouettes made the bountiful collection sing out loud.

‘There’s an element of femininity, it’s modern and it’s colourful and my aim is to create clothes that women can buy into that they wouldn’t normally buy and take them out of their comfort zone,’ he said of the Saunders brand identity. Cocoon coats, natty, graphic roll-neck knits, pleated skirts and kicky flares followed, showing off Saunders’ love for separates and their mix’n’match appeal that further fuels his rad colour wheel. He appreciates how ‘colour can be interpreted in it’s own way. That’s why I like separates so much because I love the way you can react. I have so many girlfriends who can mix [them]... it’s that feeling that I feel inspired by.’

It would be an almost endless list if we were to tally up the number of items already on fashion editors’ hopeful pre-order lists – but know this, production is going to be kept very busy. With a recent announcement regarding investment in his eponymous label from Eiesha Bharti Pasricha, this is certainly an exciting time for team Jonathan Saunders to be pushing well into the future. ‘We’re already getting very excited about plans for the next six months… that’s tomorrow’s meeting.’ Business acumen and remarkable design skills? He’s a thoroughly modern designer creating thoroughly modern clothes for a thoroughly modern brand.

TO SEE MORE OF THE COLLECTION, CHECK OUT THE GALLERY BELOW >>

FOR MORE FROM LONDON FASHION WEEK, CLICK HERE >>