Christopher Kane Autumn Winter 2015 Show Report

Love, sex, romance… these have all been hot topics within London Fashion Week so far – and we’re not talking about chitchat in between shows. Over the past few days designers have explained that rather than obvious visual reference points such as artists, movies or characters, collections have been led by the heart instead. Abstract yes, but such feelings can create incredible and honest clothes - proven by Christopher Kane’s stellar show today.

Togetherness and sensuality were two of his main driving forces in an emotionally charged collection – from the literal to the cerebral, sexy to subtle, Christopher Kane, as always, delivered his concept in many different incarnations. The show started in more ribald, brash ways – slit-to-there black velvet suiting with shocking red collars and interior linings, buckled-up dresses cut away to reveal skin, high-shine chainmail and kinky accessories like his industrial clasp fastened bags (a development from the past few seasons, now with ruffles and in bigger tote form) or leather elbow gloves. These girls dressed for a night out with the promise of something more exciting to come - there was an ‘electric orgasm’ lightening bolt-like zig zag that darted over coats and played as peek-a-boo applique on Swiss lace dresses. Slinky velvet dresses looked ready to slip right off – on purpose.

The overt sex factor was, of course, not the entire expression of human attraction on display here. Softer versions of sensuality abounded. Rippling chiffon ruffles cascading across models’ blouses, skirts and frocks, undulated with wild abandon as they walked through the Tate’s breezy and industrial Turbine Hall space. Using life drawing sketches that he and the design team created after a series of classes in the studio, Christopher formed fabric outlines from these Egon Schiele-like intertwined shapes, embroidering them onto layered ballerina-like tulle skirts, appliqued and morphed together with panels of gossamer-fine lace to create beautiful, patchworked scenes of naked bodies languishing together on midi dresses. Who else could manage to sneak genitalia into such luxury but a man as talented and groundbreaking as this?

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